When I started to design the mounting bracket, I had to visualize all of the moving parts, and where the might and could end up during normal operation. Here is a shot of the lower standard of the CB7. I studied this part for hours, making sure I wouldn't have any space conflicts. I knew the machine work would be expensive, so I did not want to waste money by having to go back again and again for corrections. As it ended up, I only had to go back once.
Looking at the "Spine" of the CB7. Here, in the center of the spine, you see three mounting holes. I planned on only using 2 of these holes to secure the camera to the mounting bracket. I thought long and hard about it. Wanted to use all three holes, but the center hole would get in the way of the mounting point for the metal shaft. After talking it over with my wife (she's a Mechnical Engineer) I was convinced that the moment involved would not be so great that two well spece'd aerospace screws couldn't do the job.
One of the many design issues on my plate was the modification and mounting of the Beseler 810 head adapter. This was made for all of the 45 series enlargers. It does not fit on the CB7. As you can see from this photo, there is a slight alignment from front to rear. The 810 adapter sits about 3/4" too far forward. Is this really a big issue. No. But I am anal. The light source and negative carrier area must be centered on the optical axis of the enlarger.
Shot #1 shows the view down thru the upper standard and lens board mount. I tried to show that they are aligned.
Shot #2 shows the 810 adapter sitting in place on top of the upper standard. The front of the enlarger is to your left. As you see, there is a gap on the left, and no space on the right. In order to align the head, some milling was in order.
In the center of this photo you see the three holes which are used to mount the 810 adapter to 45 series enlargers. This assembly is all cast aluminum, and this block (where the three mounting holes are) is solid. I decided that milling off 3/4" would allow for proper placement of the adapter. Some drilling and tapping would be required on the upper standard of the CB7 too. A note - these holes each have a helicoil inserted. A helicoil is made usually out of brass or steel, and looks like a cork screw. You cannot tap into aluminum and screw in a steel or brass screw - it will gall and seize. A helicoil is then inserted with a special tool (backwards threaded) and acts as an interface to the dissimilar metal screw. This fact had to be dealt with. Machining this surface was done without destroying the helicoil's - a testament to the fine machinist I hired to do the job.
Shot #1 shows a wide view of the side of the 810 head. Just to the right of hte round black knob thee is a flat spot. The interface is where the machining work would need to take place.
Shot #2 shows a little closer what I am talking about. This is the side shot of hte metal block that needed to be milled down 3/4" to allow for proper alingment of the 810 head.
